THANK YOU FOR CARING ABOUT LIFE

It's easy for almost anyone to fall in love with a puppy or kitten. But it takes a special person or family to adopt an adult pet. You'll find there are many advantages to acquiring a mature dog. The love and companionship you'll share are only the beginning.

WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET

With a puppy you may not know how large he will become, or what sort of disposition he will have. With a grown - or nearly grown - pet, what you see is what you get! However, it's important to remember that what you don't see is your new pet's past. The dog may or may not have been housebroken or trained. He has certainly learned to live in different environments. Be patient and give him time to become accustomed to your lifestyle.

HOME AT LAST

On his first day home, show him where he is to sleep, where fresh water is always available, when and where he is to be fed. If he is an indoor dog, take him outside at frequent intervals (every hour or two) so that he may relieve himself. Until he learns the new housebreaking routine you will have to be very watchful. Mistakes will happen, especially during the first few days when the dog feels strange in his new environment.

If the dog makes a mistake in the house firmly say "NO!" and take him outside instantly. You MUST catch the dog in the act if the correction is to be effective. A few minutes later is too late. Praise him every time he eliminates outside.

PERIOD OF ADJUSTMENT

During the first week expect occasional problems. Your new pet doesn't know you, doesn't know why he has come here or what is expected of him. He needs to be treated with watchful kindness. Anticipate problems before they occur. Don't leave tempting items such as shoes, clothing, handbags or dinner plates within reach of the dog. Having a new pet can have quite a tidying effect on a family!

MY TIME IS YOUR TIME

Plan to spend time with your new family member. He will appreciate it and respond warmly. Long walks, periods of play, or just being together will make him feel happy and secure. Many families find that the best time to acquire a new pet is during vacation at home, when they have ample time to spend with him.

EASY DOES IT

Children are always excited about a new pet. Don't allow them to overwhelm him with attention and handling. They should be taught to play gently with him, and never to disturb him when he is sleeping or eating. Parental supervision is important.

CALL ME BY MY RIGHTFUL NAME

You've probably given your dog a new name. Use it frequently and try always to associate it with good things: affection, approval and fun.

I'M JUST NOT MYSELF TODAY

When he is first settling in, your new pet may have problems of shyness, anxiety, restlessness, excitement, crying or barking. Physical symptoms may include excessive water-drinking, frequent urination, diarrhea or a poor appetite. If any of these symptoms last for more than a few days call your veterinarian.

YOUR WISH IS MY COMMAND

Be consistent. Decide on the rules and stick to them. For example, be sure you and your children understand whether or not the dog is allowed on the furniture. Does that mean all the furniture or just some of it? If you change the rules, the dog will be confused. Don't allow him to do something onetime and forbid it the next.

BASIC TRAINING

Obedience training can be very helpful to the adult dog and to you. However, it is not the same as training a puppy with no prior training. Your dog may have learned commands other than the ones you use. take time for him to adjust to your commands.

You can train the dog yourself or take him to an obedience class with a qualified trainer. Wait until after the first week to start formal training. The training period can be a good way to create a strong bond between you and your dog. In addition, the dog can learn what you expect of him and how he can please you. Both of these things are very important to him.

MEMBER OF THE FAMILY

Most dogs adjust quickly to their new families within a week or two. Some take longer. Very few dogs are unable to adjust at all. In most cases the dog will be a well-adjusted member of the family within a month. In fact, you may find it difficult to remember a time when he wasn't part of the family.

Information provided by Deena B. Case-Pall, Ph.D.

A young puppy is like a clean, new chalkboard: wide open, full of possibilities and just waiting to be filled with information. Good early training of your puppy when he/she is between six and 16 weeks of age will make future training much easier and teach your puppy good manners.

Puppy classes are extremely valuable for proper socialization. It is much easier to teach a good habit than to erase a bad one, so don't wait to begin your pup's education. Pups can be taught good manners through simple, everyday steps that any owner can follow.

Chewing

To avoid giving your puppy mixed messages do not give him or her old slippers or shoes to chew
on. They will not be able to tell an old shoe from a new one. Instead, give your pup items that are
approved for chewing and things that are unlike any of your belongings. Give your pup a few toys
of his own (more than four may confuse a young pup, making him think everything is a puppy toy).
Rotate his toys frequently so he doesn't get bored with the same toys week after week.

Play Time

Do not wrestle with your puppy, this encourages nipping and biting. Puppies wrestle with their littermates and think nothing of giving each other a playful nip. Never allow a puppy to treat humans the way it would treat canine playmates. A pup can get carried away with rough play and form the bad habit of competing with humans. Once acquired these bad habits can be dangerous and difficult patterns to break. Instead of playing hand-biting games, offer your puppy a toy to keep its mouth busy. Instead of wrestling wildly and overstimulating the pup, try gently stroking to calm him. Examine your pup everyday: look into his eyes, his mouth, handle his feet and tail, brush him with a soft brush. As the pup gets used to everyday handling, he will allow friendly touch without resistance or excitement.

Obedience Training

Do not play chasing games. They will teach your dog to run from you. Instead teach your pup to
come when called. Hold a treat or special toy so your pup can see it, call "come" in a happy voice
and playfully start to run away. When the pup starts to follow you, simply stop and let him catch
up. Praise the pup, "good come" and give him the toy or treat. After a few rounds of this game,
start teaching your pup to sit before he gets the goody.

Good dinner manners

To prevent your puppy from becoming possessive of his/her food bowl, which can lead to growling, nipping, and other aggressive behaviors, pick up the bowl after the pup has eaten a little bit, add a tasty morsel ( a small cube of cheese, or a healthy treat he enjoys) give the bowl back to the pup and tell him what a good puppy he is. If you do this three or four times a week, your puppy will be optimistic when someone reaches for his food. Do not continually disturb a pup while he's eating, but do stay nearby and interact occasionally. Your pup will learn that there is no reason to guard his food.

Good leash manners

When you take your puppy for a walk on a leash, he/she may start to pull ahead. If the pup does
this, simply stop, turn around and go the opposite direction. Praise the pup with kind words as he
turns with you. If he runs ahead, stop, then turn again. You will have to repeat this lesson a few
times, but soon your pup will realize that you are the leader and will keep his eye on you instead of racing ahead.

Polite greeting

Although it is tempting to pick up your pup and cuddle him/her, it can lead to regrets later on when
the dog grows bigger. It's better to get down to your puppy's level than to lift the pup up. Puppies
like physical contact during greetings and learn to initiate it by jumping up on people's legs. If that
behavior is rewarded by petting or picking up the pup, he will think you enjoy being jumped on. As
the puppy grows, the jumping behavior will become a problem. While your puppy is still young and
small, teach him that a proper greeting begins with sifting, not jumping. This will be much easier
than trying to break the jumping habit in a big, rowdy adolescent dog.

Housebreaking

Potty accidents indoors can be avoided if you know that puppies usually have to relieve themselves shortly after resting, eating, drinking, and playing. Young pups up to 12-weeks-old don't get much advance warning before they have to go. A puppy that eliminates in the house is doing what comes naturally and doesn't know the house rules. Shouting at the pup only confuses and frightens him. Make it a firm policy to take your puppy to an appropriate area at least once every two hours during the day, as well as after eating, drinking, napping, and play. Put your pup on a leash so he doesn't run off to explore. Tell him "go potty" and then stand quietly until he does his business. It shouldn't take more than three to four minutes. Don't play or take a walk. Calmly praise the pup after he's finished.

The positive messages during everyday interactions will teach your puppy to be gentle and well behaved. Teach good habits before bad habits can form. Your young puppy will learn fast as you fill his slate with good training. He will get into less trouble as he grows and you'll enjoy him so much more when you teach good manners as part of your daily routine.

POSITIVE DAILY MESSAGES PREVENT BAD HABITS
TEACH THESE HABITS

Come and sit - Come when called - Chew puppy toys only - Hands are for petting -
Allow food bowl to be removed - Walk on leash -Enjoy gentle examination

TO PREVENT THESE

Jumping up - Running off when called - Stealing and chewing your things - Biting hands and clothing
Guarding food bowl - Pull-lift on leash - Wiggling and squirming when held

information taken from: Puppies USA, complete guide to puppy care

(323) 730-5300 or toll free in Southern California 1 (888) SPCA-LAI

BARKING UP EVERY TREE:
How to Control Excessive Barking in Dogs

In today's high density living, excessive dog barking can be very disturbing. Although you may be able to sleep through your own dog's yips and yaps in the middle of the night, your neighbors may be ready to call animal control.

Since domestication, dogs have been selectively bred to bark in order to serve humans. Some of these uses include guarding, herding and hunting. As a result, some breeds have a natural propensity to bark more than others. Dogs also bark when they become excited, during play or to express their needs. Some dogs bark as a defense when they are frightened while others bark when bored, or isolated for long periods of time.

If you or your neighbor feels that your dog is an excessive barker, it is essential to determine why before implementing a solution.

One of the most common reasons dogs bark is to protect their territory from perceived threats. These threats can be detected visually, by smell or sound and may range from small noises to an actual intruder. The extent of the dog's territory varies greatly. Observe your pet carefully to determine the boundaries of his territory.

Reducing a neighborhood boundary will reduce your dog's natural propensity to guard it, resulting in decreased barking. To accomplish this, it is important not to allow your dog--male or female-- to mark every bush, tree or post. Always keep your dog on a leash when you are out on walks, never giving him free run of the neighborhood. Early spaying or neutering, may reduce your dog's desire to mark his territory.

Dogs who are confined to the backyard because they are not housebroken, or have destructive behaviors such as chewing, often develop excessive barking habits. This is because of territorial guarding or boredom. It is important to work on the housebreaking and destructive problems so your companion animal can join the family indoors on occasion. An untrained dog who lives alone outside will certainly have behavioral problems, barking sometimes being the least of your worries.

If your dog barks excessively when the door bell rings or there is movement outside, then training is recommended. You could draw the curtains, or confine your dog to another area in the house where outside events are not as visible. Teach your dog through obedience training to stop barking on command. Down and sit-stay commands are a good start. It is typically more difficult for a dog to bark in these positions. Choose a command such as "quiet" or "cut" when your dog barks and praise him immediately when he stops. You may want to allow your dog to bark two or three times before giving a command to stop. This is fine, but it is very important to be consistent.

A bird, squirrel or cat may activate a dog's prey instinct, leading a dog to bark continuously. In this case, getting rid of whatever is attracting wild animals will reduce the barking. Some common things
that may attract wild animals are fruit trees, nut trees, bird baths, and bird feeders. In addition, pet food should not be left outside. Even swimming pools can attract wild animals. Remove the fruit or nuts frequently from, and around, your trees. Relocate your bird bath or feeder and cover your pool.

More and more dogs today suffer from separation anxiety, resulting in fitful barking and other destructive behaviors. Separation anxiety can be alleviated by exercising your dog before you leave the house. Make absences short at first, and vary the length of time until your dog understands that you will be back. Leave special treats and toys to occupy your dog. Have someone come in during your absence and walk or play with your dog.

In summary, prevention, training, physical and mental exercise are all necessary to solve your dog's barking problem. It may be challenging to find what is causing your dog's barking problem, but easily rectified once you do. Remember to be consistent ... your neighbors will thank you.

Information Provided by Rebecca Lans

For More Information Contact
spcaLA
Companion Animal Services
1 (888) SPCA-LAI

CHEWING
ALL DOGS CHEW

This is a very normal and necessary part of every dog's life. Puppies between the ages of two and six months chew to relieve the pain of teething. Dogs, in particular young dogs, are very oral when investigating new items. Some will start chewing all of a sudden because of dental problems. A trip to the veterinarian will take care of dental chewing. What starts out as a dental problem or investigatory chewing can soon become a habit.

There are a variety of other reasons why dogs chew, from the dog being bored to having fun to relieving stress. The problem is not a dog that chews but what a dog chews. The problem occurs when the dog chooses to chew our couch instead of his rawhide.

Until the dog proves he will chew only acceptable items, he should not be given the free run of the house. The dog should be confined to limit the damage to your items. Confinement is not the cure to inappropriate chewing, but breaking the habit is essential. Confinement is also not forever, it should only be used until the dog is trained to chew acceptable items only. To help speed up the process, a healthy supply of chew toys should be left in the confinement area. Rotate his toys weekly so he does not get bored ftom the same toys week after week.

Some dogs are very particular about the items they chew on. Instead of buying tons of rawhides only to discover your dog prefers nylabones or hooves, buy one of each different type of chew toy. Offer each type to your dog and see which type he prefers. Once you see what your dog prefers, go buy lots of that type. Put chew toys in every room of the house, especially the room in which your dog has chewed on inappropriate items.

REWARDING GOOD HABITS

The single most important thing you can do to teach a dog to chew appropriate items is to reward the dog when he chews acceptable items. A lot of people believe their dog doesn't like chew toys because the dog doesn't pay much attention to them. Just buying a lot of chew toys and presenting them to your pooch is not enough. Teach the dog that playing with chew toys is fun and makes you very happy. Praise should be lavished on the dog every time he approaches and picks up the chew toy. Make the chew toy part of your play sessions - get inventive - tie a string to the chew toy and induce your dog to chase it and pick it up. To make the chew toy more appealing, you might try soaking it in chicken broth or putting a light coat of gravy on it. You may now want to teach your dog to look for chew toys. While playing with your dog, put the chew toy behind the couch or under a chair and instruct your dog to find it. When your dog retrieves the toy lavish praise and attention on him. The purpose of this exercise is to teach the dog to look for his chew toy even though one is not in immediate sight.

WHEN HE DOES WRONG

The first thing to say about a reprimand is when not to do it. Many owners come home to find that Fido has chewed something inappropriate. They angrily call the dog over to show him what he did wrong. Many times the dog will approach us head down, tail down, body close to the ground, showing all the classic signs of being guilty. We then reprimand him because he "knows" he did wrong. Dogs don't understand the concept of being guilty or doing things out of spite.
Guilt and spite are human concepts, not a dog's. So the bottom line is that if the dog is not reliable being left alone with free run of the house, he shouldn't have free run of the house.

If you catch your dog in the act of chewing an unacceptable item, then this is an excellent opportunity to correct and redirect. Your voice reprimand should be short, sharp, and immediate. "Off, find your chew toy" is enough of a reprimand. Through your tone of voice your dog knows you're upset, but also will learn how to get out of trouble. Continue to direct your dog to his chew toy. Once he picks it up, immediately lavish praise on him. Within a couple of repetitions of this exercise, the dog will start seeking out acceptable items to chew on.

If your dog has chosen a particular item to chew on that's not acceptable to you, try booby trapping that particular item with something that the dog finds distasteful. Hot sauce or a commercial product like Bitter Apple might turn the trick. But the solution still lies in teaching the dog to choose acceptable items to chew on,

(323) 730-5300 or toll free in Southern California 1-(888) SPCA-LAI

Copyright 1991
SF/SPCA
Information provided by Bob Gutierrez

THE DIGGING HABIT
How to Control Your Dog's Digging

Is your dog an archeologist? Is he excavating your backyard? If your dog is constantly digging up the yard, it may help to know that this behavior is very natural. It is only us humans that find it annoying. The good news is that this problem can be solved.

Many owners open the back door and push their dogs outside without giving a thought to teaching them which behaviors are acceptable and which ones are not. Just as you teach your dog correct behavior in the home, you must also teach your dog correct behavior in the backyard.

There are many reasons why dogs dig. Terriers and certain other breeds have been selectively bred to dig in order to go after and kill vermin; sled dogs will dig in the snow to keep warm, while other dogs may dig in the earth (particularly wet dirt) to cool off. Your dog may bury its food, toys or bones. Digging can be a means of escape (such as under your fence) or an attempt to get inside by digging below a window or outside a door.

If you don't object to your dog's digging, but would like him to only dig in one part of the yard, try the following technique:

First choose a place -- preferably one where he can be confined to when you are away. Hide toys, bones or treats near the surface and help him find them. Make it a game using commands such as, "go to your place."

When you are home, allow your dog access to the entire yard. You must watch your dog closely without him knowing. As soon as your dog makes any attempt to dig, speak in a loud, firm voice telling him to "leave it." Next, take him over to his area while repeating "go to your place." Prior to this, bury some treats (without him seeing you) in his area, and this, as well as your praise, will serve as a reward.

If it is completely unacceptable for your dog to dig, the behavior can be modified, eliminated or redirected, but you must first determine why your dog is digging.

If your dog is digging under the fence to get out of the yard, it is important that you halt this behavior immediately. His escape can be eliminated by extending the fence at least two feet underground with either bricks, concrete, stones, railroad ties, or wire mesh. DO NOT tie up your dog. This could cause other unwanted behaviors such as excessive barking and aggression. It is also dangerous because your dog is left vulnerable to attack by other dogs, or could possibly strangle himself.

If your dog's digging is due to boredom or separation anxiety, these emotions can be relieved by daily exercise and obedience training. In addition, put down special toys for your dog specifically for when you leave. Pick up the toys when you return home. Rotate the toys often to keep the dog interested. If you are gonefor long periods of time, you might consider having someone come in mid-day to exercise your dog. Digging under a window or door can also be a sign of separation anxiety. Specific behavior modification training can help alleviate much of your dog's anxiety. If your dog has not been neutered and is escaping for mating purposes, spaying and neutering will often diminish his or her desire to roam.
If your dog is digging in a shady or damp area, he may be trying to cool down. If you have a pool, you might allow him supervised play time on hot days. Be sure, however, to teach him how to get out of the pool via the stairs or ramp. If you do not have a pool, purchase a hard plastic child's wading pool and put it in a shady area. Another option is an air conditioned room!

If your dog is digging big, deep holes all over the yard, it is quite possible that he is digging after rodents, opossums, gophers, etc. This is great fun for your dog. Prevention is the key word here. Look at the environment. Are the animals coming in the yard for food or water? If you have fruit trees, remove the fruit often, and don't leave out pet food or trash. Poisoning is not recommended -not only is it inhumane, but may be dangerous to your dog. Instead, contact your local shelter, they will often have humane rental traps available.

If your dog is burying toys, bones or food. Your options are limited, as this is a highly instinctive behavior. Do not allow your dog to take these objects outside, instead provide a digging pit for him or confine him to a non-dirt area.

Putting your dog's feces in an already dug up area and covering it will prevent him from digging in the same spot again, however, he will probably dig elsewhere. Another option is to put stones, bricks or wire mesh over the hole. If your dog digs in the same spot again his nails will hit the wire or stone which have a self correcting effect.

Be careful not to fall into the trap of stopping the digging habit, only to create other unacceptable behaviors. As mentioned, tying up a dog will only create more serious problems. Also, be sure that you are not unintentionally reinforcing your dog's behavior. If you have a dog who lives for attention, but is never allowed in the house, he will feel isolated and bored. This is when digging could begin. When you come home and see the destruction you scold the dog and what he learns is that every time he digs, he gets attention! He doesn't care whether it is negative or positive attention, he just wants attention. If your dog is to stop digging, you must relieve his anxiety or redirect his energy.

Information provided by Rebecca Lans

For More Information Contact
spcaLA
Companion Animal Services
1 (888) SPCA-LAI

You and your dog companion are best of friends. You spend time together playing, walking or just enjoying each other's company. What happens when you must go off to work, or to school, or just around the corner to mail a letter and your faithful companion is left alone? Do you come home to a mess of chewed up trash, soiled carpets and a dog with a sore throat from continuous barking? If this sounds familiar, your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety.

Separation anxiety is the inability for your dog to cope when left by himself. This may result in destructive or undesirable behavior such as chewing, digging, barking, whining, housebreaking mistakes, pacing, and in severe cases, self mutilation.

Warning signs may include an extreme attachment to you, such as following you from room to room; constantly demanding attention, appearing nervous and having low self esteem.

Punishing your dog increases anxiety and will only intensify the problem.

Please remember your dog's anxiety did not happen overnight, and overcoming it will take time, effort and a lot of patience on your part. All or some of the following in combination may help alleviate the problem:

Have a friend, neighbor, relative or a professional sitter come in during the day to exercise and play with your dog when you will be gone for many hours.

Get another pet to keep your dog company. Another dog is not always necessary -- a kitten or rabbit make good companions; however, it is important that they be introduced properly and get along well.

Confine your dog to a safe and comfortable place. Do not forget to provide enough water.

Leave special toys for your dog to chew. Rotate the toys often. This will help prevent boredom.

Make a game of hiding special dog treats in safe areas of your home. This will keep your dog occupied and will take up a large portion of the day. (Especially if you are away)

Obedience train your dog. This builds self-confidence.

Exercise your dog before you leave. Sometimes exercise creates, rather than reduces, excitability. If this is the case, instead of exercise practice your new obedience commands for at least 15 minutes.

Leave a TV or radio on, especially if they are on for long periods of time when you are home.

Do not make a big deal of departing or arriving home. This creates additional anxiety.

0 Leave your dog's blanket or a "doggie" object with your scent on it within your dog's confines.

Plan to take a few days off work to practice departing and arriving. Confine your dog to his safe place. The first time you leave, do so for only a minute. Throughout the day leave and come
back. Although you should gradually be increasing the time you spend away from your dog, vary the length of time so that your dog does not begin to second guess exactly when you will be back. An example might be leaving for one minute the first time, 30 seconds the second time, and one minute the third time, etc. Do this until your dog can be left up to 30 minutes with no problems. If your dog has relapses, begin the process again. That is why it is important to train your dog gradually and with patience. Never come back when your dog is whining or barking - this will only reinforce the present behavior. Remember to be casual about your departures and arrivals.

If you cannot take time off work, consider leaving your dog in his safe place while you are still in the house. You must be in a different room and out of sight of your dog. Use the similar time sequences as above until you are able to be out of your dog's sight for at least 30 minutes.

There are many reasons for a dog's destructive and/or undesirable behaviors. Some are natural to the dog and others are knowingly or unknowingly created by well meaning owners.

Separation anxiety can be one of the most difficult problems to cure, as dogs are pack animals and we are their substitute families. However, it is a common problem many times caused by our busy schedules and lives. If the above suggestions do not alleviate your dog's anxiety, it is recommended that you contact a local trainer or behaviorist.

Information Provided by Rebecca Lans

HOUSEBREAKING 101

SUCCESSFUL HOUSEBREAKING REQUIRES:

For More Information Contact
spcaLA
Companion Animal Services
1 (888) SPCA-LAI

POOL SAFTEY

If you need help in this process, contact Palisades dog trainer Julie Sterling.
She has trained hundreds dogs to safely exit the pool and to love swimming.
(310) 573-1150

CRATE TRAINING FOR PUPPIES AND DOGS

Without a doubt, the easiest and best way to prevent misbehavior such as inappropriate chewing or housetraining mishaps is the use of crates. Think of the crate as your dog's home and sanctuary. Dogs instinctively like den spaces to curl up in and the crate represents a natural den or bedroom for him or her. Your dog will naturally want to keep his private quarters clean and will make an effort to control his to eliminate until he is outside his crate. This allows us to monitor when he will relieve himself. The crate allows you to leave your home, or work uninterrupted from a few minutes to a few hours. This "private bedroom or crib" will prevent your new dog or puppy from hurting himself or getting into trouble. Crate training is highly effective in raising a new puppy successfully or acclimating an adult dog to a new home.

Your dog's crate should be either the wire mesh collapsible or the plastic airline type for maximum comfort and security. It should be large enough for your dog to stand up without touching the top and to turn around and lie down comfortably, even when stretched out flat. However, the crate should not be so large as to give your dog room to empty himself on one end of the crate and sleep on the other. One of the main reasons to use the crate is to confine a dog without making him feel isolated or banished, therefore it should be placed in or close to a room that you use often such as a bedroom or your family room. It is important not to over stimulate your dog by placing the crate near a window or child's play area where he might be teased with activities he cannot participate in.

Getting started:

Introduce your dog or puppy to the crate slowly. Keep all experiences with the crate positive. The crate should never be used as punishment.

Frequent short-term stays in the beginning are best so your puppy isn't lonely or resentful of the time he spends inside his "bedroom".

Provide comfortable, washable bedding such as a soft rug or blanket.
(Caution: if your dog is a major "chewer" you may want to hold off on the
blanket until chewing is no longer a problem)
Feed your dog in his crate to help create positive associations with the
crate.
If you are going to leave water with your dog in the crate only leave it in containers that can not spill or be damaged by chewing. If you will only be gone a short amount of time let him have water shortly before leaving and give him a chance to eliminate prior to crating your dog. Lure your dog into the crate with a treat; do not force your dog or puppy into the crate. Let the dog practice going in and out of the crate without closing the door. Once your dog is going in and out easily, start restraining him in the crate while he eats his dinner and then opening the door immediately when he finishes. Leaving the door closed for longer and longer periods of time.